One of my favourite trends of yester-year is the super cool and slick 80s casual wear. For some it’s known as ‘terrace fashion’ but this brings about confusion and a whole lot of negative connotations, as terrace fashion is closely linked to football hooliganism!

Usually when people think of this trend, it conjures up images of council estates, violence and a bunch of skinhead racists clad in Harrington jackets and Dr Martens! But they are in fact wrong!!

80s casual wear is all about looking sharp! This is achieved by minimal styling and clean lines; and a mod-influenced hairstyle goes down quite a treat too! There are a number of brands that come under the casual umbrella such as Lyle & Scott, Fred Perry, Stone Island, Fila… I think you get my drift.

And then we have Gabicci –  definitely my favourite of all the casual brands! Gabicci isn’t exactly new, infact it’s pretty ancient! Ask your parents and I bet they will take you on a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

The brand first launched in the 1970s and after a brief hiatus, they’ve come back even stronger with two collections – The Vintage and The Classic, so decide where you fall on the casual-o-meter and rediscover the beauty that is Gabicci!

So tell me when it all got started?

Our very first collection was the Autumn of 1973.

Let’s go back in time, give us some history on the brand.

The brand was born in a Soho basement in the summer of that year and fast became  an underground style leader through the northern soul scene.  Later adopted by the ‘Football Casuals’ during the 1980s, the brand has since remained intrinsically linked to both football and music.

Have you got a favourite piece from the current collection?

The bold check woven shirt, style Mariner.

What is your USP?

Unlike most at the moment, we are not a vintage sports brand. We have a much smarter, sharper handwriting but still with genuine heritage.

What are you trying to achieve at Gabicci?

We want guys to go out in a clean, smart look, but feel great about what they wear.

Give us an INDIVIDUALISM exclusive.

We have just supplied some stuff recently to Beady Eye, the new band formed by Liam Gallager and Chris Sharrock of Oasis.

Where can we get hold of your stuff?

We’re stocked by retailers like Stuarts, Foot Asylum, Concept, Northern Threads, Mensroom, Sa-Kis and on line at ASOS and Mainline.

Are there any other brands or designers that you particularly admire?

Paul Smith

What can we expect from you guys in the future?

In the short term more of the same really, but keeping on trend with colours and fits.

What is your definition of style?

For us it’s the sharp but casual look synonymous with the brand.

What’s the one style item you couldn’t live without?

That’s tough. As a girl, I’m into accessories so it’s probably a scarf .

Where do you think the industry is heading?

I think in terms of style direction, things are getting cleaner and sharper which obviously suits us fine.

What was your biggest obstacle when creating the brand?

I don’t know because I’m far too young to have been there, still I’m glad they overcame it!

If there is one item that every guy needs from Gabicci what would it be?

Our bright cotton polo with the contrast piping – it’s an absolute must.

So there you go, straight from the horse’s mouth. For purchase enquiries, visit www.gabicci.com

Keep it yours,

Ayishat

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This week’s ‘Brand Watch’ is a little different as it’s my first, so I had to bring in the big guns and introduce you to the UK’s newest, hottest and most exclusive label… Agi&Sam, by Agi and Sam.

Since graduating from university, Agi and Sam have burst onto the fashion scene, turning heads and getting their clothes onto chart-topping music acts. Their hard graft has seen them put together a collection that your wardrobe would surely be lacking without.

What’s even better about this dynamic duo is that the pair are homegrown, and you know how we all love a bit of Britain’s Got Talent. Agi & Sam push the boundaries of men’s fashion without being ridiculously extreme - I’m talking less catwalk more sidewalk… but don’t get it twisted, this is the trendiest sidewalk, as each piece in the collection possesses its own uniqueness and undeniable charm, complete with beautiful prints and mind-boggling detail.

Unavailable in stores as of yet – Agi&Sam is a ‘Super Exclusive’. Go forth and discover!

So how long has your brand been around?

Collaboratively, this is our first season but we’ve been working hard on separate projects for about a year previous to this.

How did it all begin, tell us a little history?

Agi: The brand began early in the new year (2010) after many months of both Sam and I interning for several design companies, including Alexander McQueen, Armand Basi, Karl Lagerfeld, Carolyn Massey, Blaak Homme, and JW Anderson. After becoming exasperated with working a) for free, and b) under somebody else’s vision, we decided it was about time we took control and did our own thing.

Our ethos is simple; interesting high-end garments but at mostly affordable prices; a bid to eliminate the elitism and the throw away attitudes all too commonly seen in today’s fashion. It would appear there are advantages to a recession after all…

What is the basis of your current collection and what is your favorite piece?

Our current collection (Spring/Summer 11) is entitled the ‘Native American Colonization of the European States’ and will feature primarily the garments and styles of a wide aspect of Victorian society but with the ideals, traditions, prints, colours, and styling of the Native Americans, always designing with the question in mind ‘what if it had happened the other way round?’

Agi: My favorite piece is a digitally-printed double-breasted worsted wool pea coat adaptation - the print being of a warped traditional totem pole head but made to look also like it is a hand knitted garment.

Sam: My favorite piece is an overcoat made to look like buffalo intestine.

What is your USP (Unique Selling Point)?

A: Affordable and interesting clothing with a hint of humour but with the design and passion of high-end contemporary brands.

S: Print combined with Print, on Print.

What are your goals for Agi&Sam?

The overriding reason for starting this brand was because of a desire to wear interesting and original garments but a lack of where to find them. As a fashion conscious male you are generally left with minimal options: the High Street, where your options are quite mediocre and you run the risk of looking like every other Tom, Dick and Harry. There’s high end, where you’re presented with a wider selection, but realistically cannot afford, or second-hand and vintage, which is all well and good, but can be equally as frustrating spending hours sifting through countless rails, not to mention the fact that not everybody has a penchant for second-hand clothing.

Our aim therefore is to sit somewhere firmly in the middle and to provide something that we strongly feel is currently (and seriously) lacking.

Give us an INDIVIDUALISM exclusive.

We will be showing on the Menswear day at London Fashion Week on the 22 September at Vauxhall Fashion Scout!

So how can we get a hold of your stuff?

As this is our first collaborative collection it’s quite hard to approach a stockist firstly because we are a new brand, but ultimately because we haven’t got shit to show. But you will be able to purchase a limited range of T-shirts at our show during London Fashion Week, and otherwise by private sales through contacting us via email at info@agiandsam.com

After the launch of this collection, we shall see what happens…

You guys must have a whole lot of influences, who are your favourite designers?

A: Many of the Japanese elite such as Comme, Kenzo and Yohji Yamamoto and we love the playfulness and originality of many Belgium designers such as Walter Van Bereindonk and Bernard Willhelm.

I also believe Raf Simmons is currently the one paving the way for contemporary menswear and has more impact than people are maybe aware of. The work he is doing for Jil Sander is exceptional also.

In the UK, Folk clothing do some of the best, most considered menswear we’ve seen in a while, and as a stockist, Oi Polloi in Manchester is the best by far.

S: I love anything Dries does, they seem to just get how to use print in such a subtle and beautiful way. Then there is McQueen. I know it’s a bit same ole, same ole but of course Jil Sander and Raf Simons. The braveness, confidence and amalgamation of the print in Jil Sander’s last collection was just incredible.

What can we expect from you guys in the future?

World domination at ASDA prices.

Define Style?

A: Something that cannot be bought.

S: Effortless.

Ok so I’m going on holiday and  you guys are invited too… what style item would you never leave at home?

A: Maybe it’s a bit cringeworthy to say but skinny/slim fit jeans/pants…though they are also kind of contradictory to my above answer.

S: Definitely my cap. I have the hair of a 10-year-old boy and when I sleep it just makes up its own mind for what position it wants to be in the following day.

Where do you think the industry is heading?

A: If you mean the industry as a whole, that’s a big old question. If you’re talking about menswear, then I think its going in a good direction. There seems to be more variation and originality but with an equal amount of dedication to craftsmanship. The industry is carved around society, so the question we need to ask is, ‘where is society heading?’

This is something a designer should constantly question and challenge.

S: I think it’s heading for great heights. There are some brilliant new designers cropping up, especially in Britain. I think with the credit crunch and democratic decline, many people have been urged on to do their own thing. I studied Illustration at university and they were always talking about, ‘Freelance this, job that’.

But when the proverbial hit the fan, I had just started interning in London. I thought from then on, ‘well if I’m not going to get a job I may as well make something of myself my own way.’

Starting from scratch is always tough, what was your biggest obstacle when creating the brand?

A: Creating the brand.

S: Jiggling around freelance work and other commitments really. Obviously starting a brand isn’t the most economically sound idea for anyone and the bills still need to be paid!

One of my style icons is Spike Lee! People think it’s quite a weird one, who do you guys consider to be your style icons?

A: I really don’t think I have one. At a push I’d have to say the way old men dress.

S: I don’t really have a style icon either, I like the way someone puts clothes on Jason Schwartzman.

Finally, if there is one item that every guy needs from Agi&Sam what would it be?

A: If by ‘one’ item you mean everything…?

S: ..What that guy said.

So there you have it. For purchase enquiries go to http://www.agiandsam.com

Keep it yours,

Ayishat

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1. Gabicci
2. Rag & Bone Hacking Stand Collar Jacket
3. Men’s Cardigan By Crama

GOOD LOOK

The top left picture is taken from a friend of mine. It’s the inside of a clock. Men’s jewellery is slowly becoming more and more popular, as confident, expressive men look for items outside of the usual watch and chain sector to find items to help express their individualism.

It’s definitely something we encourage. A small item can draw a lot of attention, especially from women. As it happens, this one  started up a convo (I won’t lie to you- it was a girl rocking this item and I spoke to her, but it could easily be the other way round.)

The second picture is a great example of thinking a little differently. Even with classic staples (here the cardigan) there’s always room to add a little flair. Rather than opt for a simple plain cardigan, my good friend Nigel chose one with three distinctive features:

1. A cable knit pattern.

2. Shawl collar

3. Coffee colourway.

All small differences but it’s what distinguishes a well-dressed man from a stylish one!

BAD LOOK

I’ve been having a debate over Doc Martins. I refuse to wear them myself as I dont think they suit my style, but also because they have hit that point in a trend where it loses its appeal. It doesn’t really say anything but “im following a trend”

Some people can pull these off. But NO-ONE should try to with a suit. Like this gentleman did. That’s as bad a mistake as when I accidently sent a seductive text meant for my girlfriend to my sister.

The final pic shows a chap with a rip in his jeans. Firstly a rip in your jeans ANYWHERE is just wrong. Why all Eastern European men in my area think tight stone washed jeans with rips in them is a good look, only god knows.

If you want to follow suit please do.

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YMC or ‘You Must Create’, however you refer to them, one thing stays the same and that’s the quality of their designs. This British brand has now been going strong for over 15 years and it’s their design philosophy that we really admire, as they’re “not led or influenced by season trends but try to provide the solution for intelligent clothing that is both wearable and distinctive.”

This week’s Product of the Week’ displays their philosophy perfectly; this Hunting sweater is basically a simple jersey sweater with suede shoulder-patch detailing and a zip pocket. But it’s these simple details that make it so distinctly stylish in our eyes.

It’s a great piece to throw on for the weekend when you’re a little too lazy to button up a shirt but don’t want to like you’re going to the gym.

Head over to Goodstead to spend that payday money!

Stay Stylish,

Aaron C.

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We don’t really do sportswear here at Individualism and to be honest, we’re not too sure why. Maybe it’s because it’s hardly the most elegant category in menswear or maybe it’s because wearing a hoody in East London doesn’t hold the most positive connotations. But like Will Smith’s lyrical masterpiece, we thought we’d switch it up.

This week’s ‘P.O.T.W’ comes from US brand Apolis Activism. The brand are famous for their red stitched cross which means:  ’The sign of relief and an icon for all global citizens committed to quality and change. Apolis Activism applies contemporary design, premium fabrics, and an opportunity to share the value of Trade.’

Their ideals are certainly apparent in this modish navy hooded pullover. Boasting a French twill contrast placket and pocket trim as well as natural Caruso buttons carved from Tagua Nuts (I know it sounds like some sort of India Jones relic), this piece is ticks all the right boxes.

• Comfortable
• Understated
• Stylish
• Masculine

Check out context now for a close look now.

As always,

Stay Stylish

Aaron C.

Related posts: Top 4 Polo Shirt Styles

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